Monday, June 30, 2008

The Good, The Bad and the Tired

After the trip to the park we did hike back to the hotel for a rest and a great two hour nap - much needed and well deserved. This was good, actually it felt great. We were so overheated and needed it.

At 6:00 PM we were back out and on the streets. We headed to Piazza Navona to see the Bernini Fountains, which unfortunately are being restored. This was disappointing, so you understand.

We decide to enjoy the lively Piazza Novona for dinner, as it is fun to see the tourists, vendors, artists and just plain interesting folk. We got front row seats and even had a great guy nearby playing electronic guitar with songs from Santana, Eagles and Pink Floyd. Dinner was good, as we had liver and onions (yum) and the atmosphere was great.

We walked to the Pantheon next and them to Trevi Fountain (again) to see it light at night. Again it was beautiful, even more so at night. Another good.

Next stop was the Spanish Steps, which were crowded but enjoyable. They were nice to see and another good.

Now the bad! We headed to the subway - closed! It closed at 10:15 PM and we got there at 10:16 PM. Everything we read said it was open to 11:30 PM. Very bad.

Next station closed. Taxis are tough to find, so we made the 8 or so mile hike back to the hotel. Very bad. Very tired.

But Dale found the bright side - we are seeing Rome at night and parts we did not plan. We saw a couple of beautiful churches - so not all bad, but still tiring.

So today we walked too much, even with our two hour nap. We hit 49,855 or almost 25 miles. Ugh.

The trip total is 380,425 steps or 190.25 miles. Argh. My feet are feeling it.

They say

They say Rome wasn't built in a day (or at least I think that is the saying).

I bet it took four days to build Rome. That way they could have started on Monday and then taken Friday off to enjoy the long weekend.

I could be wrong.

Over-heated in the park

We are at the Borghese, which is the large park in Northern Rome.

It was an unexpected hike up here, but once you get here it is nice and shaded.

We are a bit over-heated, so we figured a stop at the park would be nice, but the walk up over-heated us more.

The park is very large with a lake, two museums and a zoo, which makes it a lot like Central Park.

The only downside is the trees drop their lives and that seems to kill most grass.

I think we may make the hike back to our hotel and take a break until dinner, but not sure yet.

Vatican Tour

The Vatican was incredible, but the best part was the Sistine Chapel. It was glorious, peaceful and delicate. I only wish they limited the number inside at each time. Had it been like the Last Supper and only 25 at a time it would have been very spiritual. With so many people crowded in, I felt it hard to connect to Michelangelo's work. I was in awe to think of the time and detail that went into each stroke of the brush.

I also adored St. Peter's Basilica. It was grand and overwhelming. Such a difference from the Chapel. The highlight was seeing Michelangelo's Pieta. It was the most beautiful of the four as it was more ornate and polished. It is amazing to have seen all four, each in a different, unique setting. Each beautiful and emotional in their own way.

Our tour was good but I was scolded by the guide for walking ahead. Apparently he wanted everyone next to him at all times. By the end I concluded I am not a tour person. I hate following direction.

After our 3 hour tour we are exhausted and hungry, so here we sit at an outdoor cafe.

Oh and if you are wondering, the Pope did not ask to see me. All I can assume is he must not have received word of my visit.

We just saw a monk hop on his scooter. Yesterday there was a nun listening to her iPod on the subway. Ah, Rome.

Vatican Update

Oh my God. Guess what?

The guide is male. The guide is wearing linen. However the guide is not dreamy.

Well two out of three came true, but I would have taken male and dreamy over linen.

I guess I should have listed my wishes in order of priority.

Next Stop The Pope

Good morning.

Dale and I got up extra early today to head over to the Vatican. We have a scheduled tour so we wanted to get here early, so we could find the meeting point without rushing.

So after breakfast we walked to the subway, took it to our stop and followed the signs that said, "This way to the Pope!". Well it said Vatican City, but it means the same thing.

So now we sit on the steps across from our the Vatican Museum waiting for our tour. I am hoping our guide is a cute Italian guy dressed in linen with dreamy eyes that I can stare at for hours pretending to listen. But the guide will probably be anything but - so I am guessing an ugly woman dressed in polyester with an eye patch. Argh! A pirate.

I hear good things about the Vatican, but since the Pope lives there I would not expect a lot of trash talk. But I will tell you all the truth post tour.

Sunday, June 29, 2008

We are off the map

The Trevi Fountain was beautiful, as expected. I can see why Dale loves it so much. It is truly a work of art. I wish it had less tourists but isn't that true of every attraction. You want it all to yourself.

After the fountain we walked a bit, wondered into another parade we did not understand and finally headed to the subway and our hotel.

My only complaint from this entire trip is that our hotel here is not near any of the sights. We are actually on the southeast corner of Rome. We are so far southeast that we do not appear on the Rome map. Yes, we are off the map!

Now I would not mind if we were close to the subway, but we are a 20 minute walk to the nearest station. It just makes it hard to pop to your hotel to freshen up before dinner or take a quick nap. In Paris we were in a less touristy area but I did not mind as we were a block from the subway.

I recommend anyone who books something similar buy maps and have your travel agent show you where your hotel would be before you book. That way you can determine location from major sights. It may make your trip a bit easier.

Maybe I am just cranky as my feet are tiring easy these days and I am realizing our vacation is on its' last leg. Either way - still good advice on the maps pre-booking.

We did 24,001 steps today or 12 miles. We spent a good portion today at our Florence hotel packing and on a train so it was less than it felt.

The trip total is 330,570 steps or 165.25 miles. I think we will come in around 200 miles of walking this vacation, which is quite a bit when you think about it.

Tomorrow we are off to see the Pope. We have a tour of the Vatican, but I am sure when he hears I am in Vatican City, he will want to meet me. Maybe he has read my blog. Who knows. He is a modern day Pope and all.

It is funny. Dale and I have become so European we are in our hotel actually watching the soccer match - Euro 2008 between Germany and Spain. We are actually into the game even. How funny. Our friend Toby would be so proud.

Good night all.

Rome is in ruins

We arrived safely in Rome after a short train ride, met our car and were whisked off to our hotel.
We checked in, caught our breath and then made our way to the subway. One train change and four stops later we were standing at the doors of the Colosseum.

What a bunch of crap! If this is their version of the Pepsi Center than they are screwed. The walls are falling in and all the seats have been stolen. I see why Madonna plays in Denver. Disappointed we headed to the Roman Forum, which I have to assume is their version of Flatirons Mall. Again, everything was run down and it looked like all the shops were long gone. This Rome place is a bust!

Okay, I am just kidding.

The Colosseum was grand, magnificent and wonderful. You felt so insignificant against something so large and historic. It was amazing to think of a time when humans were killed as a spectator sport. Of course in the US you can still see people get lethally injected.

The Palestine Hill and Roman Forum were also amazing. It was like walking through an archaeological dig and being transported in time.

It is hot and humid here so we are moving a bit slower than normal. We were headed to the Trevi Fountain, but decided to have some dinner first. But where to eat?

Next thing you know we see a cute, smiling waiter and we were eating dinner. We often find we opt for the cafe with the cute, smiling waiter.

We both had steak from Denmark for dinner and it was delicious. We needed the protein to keep up our energy.

Next stop the Trevi Fountain which is a favorite of Dale's from when he visited Italy a few decades back. I was still in diapers, so I was not invited.

Top Five of Florence/Pisa

We are watching music videos in our hotel and packing, so I figured why not do another top 5 list.

Firstly, let me say Florence is a joy. It has a nice pace to it and is not overwhelming. To walk around this city at night is a complete joy - the sights, sounds and even smells are true Italy. You feel like you are walking through a poem or song. It feels like you are part of a fairy-tale. You feel magical.

Here is the top 5.

1. Michelangelo's David. By far the most commanding, yet beautiful statue we have seen, almost as if carved by God himself. Glorious.

2. The Leaning Tower of Pisa. Seeing and climbing up something so iconic was incredible. The whole experience and view from the top was a vacation highlight.

3. Seeing Michelangelo's 2nd and 3rd Pietas. Each is so different, but so all are so powerful in how they present the agony and emotion of the death of Christ for the Virgin Mary. Incredible.

4. The view from Piazzale Michelangelo. The hike is tough, but the views overlooking all of Florence with the river, bridges and Duomo are heavenly.

5. Gelato. Yes, we are picking ice cream as a top pick. In Florence they make their ice cream an art form. The mix of flavors and colors is excellent and worthy of praise.

So onto Rome, which many have claimed as their favorite. Venice will be tough to beat.

Saturday, June 28, 2008

My Feet Hurt

We are back at the hotel and onto our final stop Rome tomorrow. It is hard to believe this vacation is almost over. The only thing that will be happy will be my feet. Two of my toes have huge blisters today, almost doubling the size of each toe. I know, gross.

Dale is feeling the foot pain today too.

Today was a heavy walking day between two cities, climbing a tower and two museums. Plus finding all that gelato takes some walking too.

We had 30,597 steps or 15.25 miles. Quite a bit of walking.

That brings our trip total to 306,569 or 153.25 miles.

Tomorrow will be an easier day as we are sleeping in, heading to the train at 11:30 AM and then a 3.5 hour train ride to Rome.

Step Up & Be Judged

After a nice dinner in a courtyard and a stop for a barrel, I mean cup of gelato, Dale and I found a church to sit and people watch or what is really judging others. Judging their hair, outfits and even spouses.

Oh you do it too. Don't lie.

Anyhow, we have reached one major conclusion - the shinier and tackier the purse, shoes or even dress, the more the women of Italy love it. Apparently metallic is the new pink and if it can reflect light, even better.

Also tight is back in. If you can barely breathe, then it is the right size.

What Not To Wear really needs to do an episode in Florence.

That is all!

Train Gossip

There is an extremely loud Asian woman on the train behind us who is screeching on her cell phone. I am fearful Dale may kill her in the next 60 minutes.

There are also two bitchy American girls in their late teens or early 20s on the train eating McDonald's. One is brunette and one is blond (well a bottle made her a blond, not nature).

From their loud conversation, they forgot their keys in their apartment. The brunette called their landlady to have her wait for them, but she has plans and will only wait until 7:30 PM, so they are all pissed as they are leaving tomorrow and need to pack tonight. Plus they trashed the apartment and the brunette's Daddy (yes she said Daddy) will be pissed if she does not get their deposit back.

They keep bitching and saying oh my God a lot. And the blond keeps biting her nails. We are trapped in an episode of The Hills!

We are surrounded by annoying woman.

The blond just called the landlady (Lucy) again and convinced her to wait until 8 PM. She was all sweet as pie, even though Lucy was a bitch three seconds ago in their conversation.

I wish she would stop biting her nails.

The Asian woman apparently uses the train ride to call every person she has ever met.

Look at Dale and I, so quiet.

These girls are so annoying. Maybe they should have:

1. Not forgot their keys.

2. Called their landlady earlier since they knew all day they forgot their keys.

3. Left Pisa earlier.

4. Stopped being bitches.

If this blond eats anymore of her finger, there will be nothing but a stump.

I am hoping the train goes slow so they miss their landlady and are forced to sleep on the streets or sell themselves to men just for the bed.

Okay, I really do not mean that. Well not entirely.

Please stop eating your damn finger nails. Honestly 35 minutes on the train and for 5 minutes the blond ate a hamburger and the last 30 her hand. Yuck!

The Asian woman got off at Empoli. Yeah! This was the last stop I remember to Pisa as I feel asleep.

Now they are pissed because they may have to run to meet Lucy. It is too hot to run. Lucy is a bitch again.

See you are probably hoping they have to sleep on the streets now too.

I bet Lucy is a nice lady. I picture her once being an artist, but now she manages an apartment to make ends meet. She works hard all week and Saturday night is her only night her and her boyfriend Antonio both have off, so she needs to meet him after work. Lucy is somewhere in her 30s, has long black hair that she always wears in a ponytail and wears long flowing skirts. She rides a bicycle almost every where. Every time she rides by a museum, she tells herself she needs to pull out her sketch book and draw again, but she never does.

Lucy's boyfriend Antonio is a waiter at a touristy cafe in the local square. He hates it, but his dream of fronting a band never paid the bills either. He has black spikey hair and far too many tattoos. They met five years ago. Lucy would come to the cafe he waited tables every night after work and sip over-priced wine. Friendship eventually turned to flirtation and finally Antonio asked her out.

See now that nice landlady Lucy has a back story you are really hoping the American bitches get stuck on the street, huh?

It is now been an hour and the blond is still not full on eating her fingers. The brunette should really tell her to stop or put some ketchup on those things.

Also Italy along this train route is quite pretty.

I wonder if these girls are headed to Florence or further on this train. I think Florence is the last stop, but maybe not.

I was thinking of making up back stories for the two girls and even names, but I feel humanizing them will only take away from Lucy.

The next stop is ours.

Here we are. The girls are running. It is 7:40 PM. I assume they will make it.

However, I am hoping:

1. Lucy decided the hell with waiting, life is too short and went to meet Antonio at 7:30 PM as they rarely get to see each other.

2. The blond falls on the streets of Florence and the brunette has to drag her to the apartment only to see Lucy pedaling away.

3. Lucy goes to the apartment, sees it is trashed, throws their stuff onto the curb, keeps the deposit and calls the brunette's Daddy.

Oh to dream! We are off to dinner.

Pisa & Parade

The view from the top of the Leaning Tower of Pisa was breath-taking. You could see for miles and miles in every direction.

The climb up was not bad at all and the temperatures were cool since the walls are stone and the windows narrow.

The steps are amazing. You can see the flat steps have worn from all the visitors climbing to create large grooves in every one.

The Tower and trip were amazing, well worth the 1 hour train ride, 20 euros in train tickets and 30 euros in tickets to climb the Tower.

It was once again amazing to stand and climb something you had seen 100 times in books and movies.

On the way back to the train we stopped for a bit of gelato and saw a parade in the streets. We are not sure why there was a parade, but it sure was pretty.

We are now headed back to Florence on the train. It is crowded and warm, but not as crowded and warm as when we took the train to Pisa.

Trip to Pisa

We are at Pisa.

What a rip-off! Their tower is leaning. Who the hell built this thing? Who wants to celebrate poor construction?

Just kidding.

But think about it. If not for the poor construction of a 13th century architect, what would the town of Pisa be today? This town is sustained on poor workmanship.

My guide book says the tower was leaning after the base was built and by the time the first section was done it was only worse. It sat unfinished for hundreds of years until a new architect came along claiming to be able to fix it. He added all the rest of the floors but it only made it worse. Again it sat for several hundred more years until another architect and another claim to fix came along.

It underwent a good restoration in the 1990s that took back 200 years of tilting further after the restoration in the 1960s made it even worse.

We have about an hour until our tickets to climb the tower. I am excited - more climbing! But when can you say you got to climb a world landmark.

Okay back to people watching.

Manly Observations

The men of France have the nicest suits. Paris men know how to dress. All classic and pure style. It was a treat just to look at them all.

The men of Italy have the coolest eye wear. Whether glasses or sunglasses, the men of Milan and Florence know good eye wear. They explore shapes and colors making American eye wear look generic. They also are all about the jewelry - rings, bracelets watches and necklaces. It is nice to see.

I am sure the women of both countries are pretty too, but I haven't noticed.

Train to Pisa

The train to Pisa is hot and crowded.

This is more of a local train and on weekends I think a lot of people take the train into Florence to shop.

The train is completely full so we are lucky to have seats at all. People had bags on seats, so we kindly asked them to move them so we could sit. But we unfortunately are sitting in different sections. But better than standing the whole way.

Not 100% how long of a ride.

Uffizi and Lunch

We have stopped for lunch to take a break before we catch the train to Pisa.

The Uffizi Gallery was great. Room after room of paintings and statues that brought Florence into the Renaissance. Glorious. Still hard to compare to seeing David.

We did see the Adoration of Magi, which is an unfinished painting by Leonardo da Vinci. He left it unfinished and moved to Milan. A bit large to carry with you I guess.

Unfortunately they do not allow photos but well worth the visit.

We had reservations for both Accademia and Uffizi today, so we could skip the long lines.

Again I am glad I read about the reservations in Laurie's book and we had the hotel clerk in Milan book for us.

We are eating near a church and there is a wedding today. What a place to be married. Beautiful.

David

We visited the museum this morning that houses both Michelangelo's David, plus another of his Pietas.

We have now seen 3 of the 4 Pietas of Michelangelo which are scattered throughout Italy in Milan, Florence and Rome.

David was truly amazing. You feel so small against his enormous size. The work is incredible and the statue is so life-like you expect it to move at any moment. It is truly one of the most incredible sculptures we have ever seen.

Off to the next museum.

Step by Step

I forgot to blog about our steps yesterday. Since a good portion of the day was on a train it was low for us. We had 18,382 or 9 miles.

That brings our trip total to 275,972 or 138 miles.

Friday, June 27, 2008

Florence - The True Italy

Florence is a wonderful city and looks exactly like what I expected our trip to be when Dale told me that we were going to Italy.

Women in skirts riding bicycles.

Streets lined with vendors.

Beautiful churches.

A glorious river running through town.

Sculptures that lead a world into the glorious age of the Renaissance.

Gelato stands.

The pace here is much slower and similar to Venice, which was welcomed by Dale and I.

After our lunch at 5 PM which ending up being so filling it became our dinner, we walked the town through piazzes and wonderful streets.

We even made the hike up to Piazzale Michelangelo, which is at the top of a large hill and allows you to see over the entire city. The hike up is tough, but the views are tremendous. We learned of this spot from reading the Spencer's blog, so thanks to Cindy and Kevin.

After the hike back down we walked to Ponte Vecchio, which is a bridge lined with stores. It is very romantic at night and where men add padlocks to the rails of the bridge and throw the key in the river to show their undying love for their girlfriend.

We could not resist and stopped for some delicious gelato, which is even better in Florence.

This town is heavenly and feels like the true Italy. I highly recommend a visit.

Tomorrow we go to the Galleria dell' Accademia and Galleria degli Uffizi which are the top museums and includes Michelangelo's David, which I am looking forward to seeing.

Then onto a day trip to Pisa.

I will never be able to thank Dale enough for this trip.

First Stop Duomo

We found our hotel within minutes and even went to buy train tickets to Pisa for tomorrow. Aren't we becoming the world travelers?

After checking into our hotel we headed over the the Duomo and Duomo Museum. Both were incredible as expected.

The best part of the Duomo Museum was seeing another of Michelangelo's Pietas. There are four in total and we have now seen two.

Again you could walk right up and touch it. The sculpture is incredible and moving.

We are now grabbing lunch, even though it is dinner time and then off to wonder the city, which so far is very nice.

Random Thoughts to Florence

We are sitting on the train to Florence.

The train arrived 10 minutes late.

There were two people in our seats.

We have the window and they took them.

Dale told them they were in our seats.

They tried to pretend they did not understand.

Dale was persistent.

They moved.

You could tell they knew they were in the wrong seats.

It is humid and warm on the train.

Sticky.

The temperature surely promotes sleep.

Dale is drifting in and out.

I can tell even though he is wearing sunglasses.

His mouth opens slightly when asleep.

I am reading the book Dirty Job by Christopher Moore.

My friend Sara Pacheco turned me onto him with Lamb.

I am obsessed with his dark humor.

It is tough to sit opposite Dale on a train.

His legs are long.

Dale is awake again.

Dale just opened a piece of candy.

The wrapper is loud.

It sounds like an old woman opening a butterscotch candy in a quiet theater.

Still hot.

Still sticky.

I tried going back to my book, but heat is making it hard to concentrate.

News said it was 94 in Rome yesterday.

Ugh.

We go there after Florence.

The woman next to me is knitting.

The pattern is a fish.

It is ugly.

She looks too trendy to knit.

Especially a fish.

Dale is staring out the window.

Train made a stop in Parma.

It is not a fish she is knitting.

My mistake.

It is a shark.

Shark with a goofy grin.

Must be for a son or grandson.

It is still ugly.

It is Friday.

Our dogs go to doggie daycare today back home.

I miss the dogs.

The people next to us just got off at Modena.

They left all their trash.

Thanks!

I hope your grandson hates his knitted fish.

Sorry ugly shark.

Two men got on and took their seats.

The one next to me smells odd.

Not bad.

Not good.

Just odd.

Can't place the smell.

Not sure if the guy next to Dale smells the same.

I like my book a lot so far.

There is a character named Mr. Fresh.

Just found out his first name is Minty.

Ha! Minty Fresh. Funny.

Oops. Accidentally posted blog.

Damn!

Train stopped in Bologna.

Station has a lot of graffiti and seems dirty.

Oscar Meyer would not be happy.

Pretty big station.

Train seems a little cooler now.

Dale is asleep again.

Read page 116 of A Dirty Job by Christopher Moore - hilarious.

Did you read it yet?

Lots of tunnels in this part of the trip.

Should be arriving soon.

About 10 minutes.

Welcome to Florence.

Next stop our hotel.

Thursday, June 26, 2008

Top 5 of Milan

Milan was not my favorite stop, but worth the trip. We probably should have just spent one full day here versus 1 and 1/2.

However I am glad we came as being able to view The Last Supper made it all worthwhile.

Our top picks.

1. Leonardo da Vinci's The Last Supper. No surprise here, right? It was inspiring, beautiful and made us feel very spiritual. It was something I will hold in my heart forever, as I sure will Dale.

2. Cimitero Monumentale. This cemetery is incredible. Every grave is a work of art and a spectacular tribute to a loved one. The people of Milan in the late 1800s and early 1900s really knew how to honor the dead. I took close to 200 pictures there alone, including one statue that is called Parting Kiss that shows a woman kissing a deceased man, presumably her husband, goodbye. It was so touching and felt so soft even though made of stone.

3. Michelangelo's Pieta. How can you not feel amazed by being able to walk right up to such a legendary statue. It is raw and full of emotion, as you see the sorrow of Mary with her dead son in her arms. It is something we saw repeated numerous times at the cemetery grave stones.

4. Duomo. This cathedral is one of the largest in Europe and stunning both inside and out. A true work of art. When you see it you understand why it took 500 years to complete.

5. Castello Sforzesco. How often do you get to see a real castle, moat and draw bridges. The castle is amazing against a modern city and the park behind the Castle is incredible - an oasis in a hot, fast-paced city.

A Night Off Our Feet

It is 9 PM here is Milan and Dale and I have called it an early night. Usually we are not back to our hotel room until 11 PM or 12 AM (midnight), but tonight we had an early dinner and were back by 7:30 PM.

We are both over-heated, exhausted and honestly a bit tired of the pace of Milan. I think we are both looking forward to our next stop Florence.

A night in the hotel has been a nice change of pace. We watched an Italian game show where the contestants were on a giant roulette wheel. Even in another language it was fun to watch. Next we watched some music videos and we are now watching CNN Europe which is in English. It is nice to get caught up on the rest of the world.

So far the big news is Bill Gates retiring, North Korea giving up nuclear weapons and the soccer match semi-finals of Euro 2008 between Russia and Spain taking place right now in Vienna.

Plus I took a nice long shower and feel a lot better. It is still light outside but it feels great to be in bed off my feet.

For steps we hit 25,363 or 12.50 miles. That brings our trip total to 257,590 or 128.75 miles (and my feet are feeling it today).

Tomorrow after breakfast we catch a train to Florence. I am hoping Saturday afternoon we can catch a train to Pisa, but we will see.

It's A Hot One Today

We made our way to the shade of another park. The heat against the pavement is pretty unbearable today, so the trees in the parks are the only sanctuary in Milan. We even went shopping just for the air conditioned shops. I bought new underwear.

This one is in the middle of a residential area and has a merry-go-round, bumper cars and even a man juggling knives. It is noisy with kids yelling.

We are sitting on a grassy area near a tree. Several people are lying shirtless in the sun or napping. There is a man near us practicing with his soccer ball.

The knife juggler is now riding a uni-cycle. Quite the Renaissance man. Now juggling balls. I hope he eats fire next. Nope, back on the uni-cycle.

It is hot. My back is wet with sweat. The humidity is a killer here. I may pass out. I just took my shoes off. That feels better. My shorts may be next. Stay tuned.

Duomo & McCafe

We went to the Castle again today. It is like a movie set, with a dried up moat but actual draw bridges. It is very impressive.

However the museum we wanted to see was closed today and we had already toured the other museums of interest yesterday.

So we headed to the Cathedral or Duomo instead. We added the zip on legs to our shorts as everyone must cover their knees. Women must cover their shoulders. They have guards outside that monitor this and hold up pictures showing what is wrong with your outfit. One woman had her shoulders covered but her boobs were popping out, so the stopped her. She had to re-adjust her scarf to cover the girls up.

Once inside we opted for our first audio tour. With 50+ audio stops we were in information overload, but overall we learned a lot. The Duomo was amazing and well worth the visit.

Hot and hungry we headed to the glass-domed Galleria but opted for McDonalds (called McCafe) for a quick bite. They are every where here and very crowded. The names of the burgers are different but taste the same. Something to keep our energy up in this heat until dinner.

It is funny to follow-up a cathedral started in the 1300s with a trip to McDonalds, but what can you do.

Milan - NYC of Italy

We walked around the large park near Sforzesco Castle. It is Milan's version of Central Park. For some reason I kept comparing Milan to New York City with Central Park, Chinatown and Times Square, but the similarities are interesting .

The park is filled with people eating on benches, joggers, snack stands, people seeking shade under trees, bicyclists and even an area with cute boys sunning themselves. We found the last section the most interesting.

We stopped for some cold waters and gelato to cool off and now onto the castle.

Little Vietnam

One of the reasons Dale and I like to walk every where we can is you discover things the guide books never tell you about and you would never see if you stuck only to the subway.

While walking from the cemetery to Sforzesco Castle we came upon Milan's version of Chinatown, except in their case I think it is Little Vietnam. All the signs were in Vietnamese for about six blocks and all the shops sold Asian goods. It was interesting to see in the middle of Milan.

It is very hot and sunny, so we are sitting in the shade outside their soccer arena drinking some water and relaxing a bit.

Cimitero Monumentale

This morning Dale and I walked about three miles to Cimitero Monumentale, which is their very large and beautiful cemetery in Milan.

Our guidebook said although few visit, it is actually considered one of the most grand cemeteries in Italy, if not all of Europe.

It is amazing and every plot and mausoleum is truly a work of art. Most feature life-sized statues of angels, Christ or of the person buried.

The cemetery was started in the mid-1800s but some family plots are so large there are people buried as recently as this year.

The cemetery is very sunny with little shade, but much more kept and preserved than Pere-Lachise in Paris.

We have been here wondering for a few hours and have taken refuge on a bench under a magnolia tree to escape the heat.

You could easily spend days here. I love cemeteries as they are history. I love the statues and grace stones because you know love and honor when into each selection.

It is glorious here.

Power Outage

While in the bathroom getting ready this AM our hotel's power went out. The bathroom is on the interior with no windows. I was just about to jump in the shower when complete darkness surrounded me. It was not dark it was a struggle to find the door knob.

To shower, we opened the bedroom shades, which reflected enough light on the mirror on the bedroom wall, which then shined some light in the bathroom, if we left the door open.

At least we were not in the elevator or anything.

Wednesday, June 25, 2008

Milan - The Paris of Italy

When we first arrived in Milan I told Dale I wanted to lock myself in our room until we left on the 27th.

The pace of this large city put me in sensory overload. Cars, buses, cable cars, the heat from the pavement and all the people were too much to take.

However, once we got to a different part of town near Sforza Castle I felt much better. It was a lot more like Paris with beautiful streets with balconies filled with geraniums.. We got to the castle 1 hour before closing but were able to see Michelangelo's fourth Pieta, which is a stone sculpture of a dead Christ with a sorrowful Virgin Mary. You are able to walk right up to it and even touch this work that was left unfinished as Michelangelo died while working on it. It was amazing to see such a work with no crowds.

Afterwards we went to the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie to see Leonardo da Vinci's Last Supper, which I already blogged about.

Tonight after dinner we wondered throughout town and came across Milan's version of Times Square, which is in front of their Duomo or Cathedral. The Duomo was very gothic and grand, featuring gargoyles and hundreds of statues on the outside. It was already closed so we couldn't go in.

However outside there is a huge courtyard and there is a huge 100 by 100 foot television overlooking the courtyard featuring Milan's soccer team playing somewhere. The courtyard was filled with people who brought dinner and beer to watch the match. It was quite a sight to see.

We wandered through Galleria Vittorio Emanuele which is a four-story, glass domed area built in the 1800s. It is now home to many upscale retail stores and even a McDonalds.

After 29,124 steps or 14.5 miles of walking today, we finally found our way back to our hotel. This brings our total to 232,227 or a little over 116 miles.

Standing with God

Dale's smile goes a long way. I have always felt so personally, but today it is a proven fact. Amazingly we were both able to get into see the Last Supper without reservations a month in advance.

Dale at 6:15 PM and me at 6:30 PM. Only 25 people per showing. Dale kindly asked if we could wait and buy any tickets for people who did not show. This is something they do not publicize. We read it in our travel guide that our co-worker Laurie let us borrow for the trip. Everyone who came in and asked for tickets were told you must do so by phone and do so one month in advance.

Automated door open and you are lead into the room the remains of the original Church. All the walls are painted white except for the Last Supper by Leonardo Da Vinci at one end and the Crucifixion by another artist that was also painted in the late 1400s like the Last Supper and remains. There are several benches and you are allowed to move within 10 feet of the wall with the painting.

The room echos as does a church with high ceilings. The only way I can describe the feeling you get from standing in the room is small. You are in awe of being near something so rare and historic. It is strange but you feel like you are standing with God. There is such a spiritual feeling all around you. It feels safe and heavenly. This by far was one of the most amazing things we have seen so far.

After we wondered the streets for a few minutes and found a restaurant hidden beautifully under some trees for dinner. So far the salads were amazing, so I expect not different with our main course.

The Last Supper

We are in Milan. We found our hotel within 7 minutes. A new record for us - so very exciting. It helped we were staying two blocks from the train station.

We checked in. Got a better map at the front desk and then asked the front desk clerk to try to book us on any of the city tours that visit the Church that has the painting The Last Supper of Christ on the wall. It is not on canvas, but was painted on the actual wall. Unfortunately all were booked for tomorrow.

So plan B. We jumped on the subway and headed over to the Church. It requires reservations to see the painting (25 people every 15 minutes) and thanks to the Da Vinci Code book and movie, they are booked for months. The only hope is someone did not pre-pay and does not show. Only then can you get those tickets. So we are waiting and hoping. Last shot is at 6:45 PM. Dale is being very friendly to the women at the desk and asking every 10 minutes.

The amazing part of the painting is the entire Church was bombed in WWII and the only wall to survive was the one with the painting. A sort of divine intervention. The Church has since been rebuilt and the painting went through a 25 year restoration to help with aging and decay.

Everyone for the 6 PM showed, so only 3 tries left.

Charming Train Ride

The Italian countryside is quite beautiful and charming. I would say much more so than France (sorry France, Italy wins).

If you ever have an opportunity to travel by train in Italy do it. The trains are very clean. The sights are wonderful. You travel by picturesque red roofed towns surrounding lakes, lush vineyards and green rolling hills. Every few miles you are surprised by a new sight or town.

Train is a great way to travel, much better than a bus and only $50 each for first class. There is even a little cart that came up and down the car selling cookies and espresso. Very cute and very Italian.

Also, all the Verona people settled in and quieted down, so I am happy again. No poison. Everyone can live today. Hurrah!

We will be arriving in Milan shortly (about 5 minutes) and then we will wonder around to find our hotel, which for us seems to be our greatest difficulty, at least in Paris and Venice. We tend to have to walk by it a few times before we notice it. Maybe Milan will be easy and we will find it in one try. I doubt it knowing Dale and I, but I will be optimistic.

Ciao.

Verona, Romeo, Juliet & Poison

The train had a major stop in Verona and we just had pulled away. A lot gone off and as many got on the train.

The guidebook says it is a very pretty town but many go there as it is the "supposed" home of the legendary Romeo & Juliet.

Now the problem is that Romeo & Juliet was a fictional story written by Shakespeare possibly about and loosely based on two families who may have or may not have lived in Verona who may have or may not have hated each other and may have or may not have had two children that secretly loved. So as you can see - lots of may have or may not haves.

It is rumored that Shakespeare based his story on this tale, but all the drama with poison and killing themselves was stuff he added and never actually happened. It is what makes for a good story.

The sad part is that so many people visit Verona that people have set up tours of Juliet's "actual" house, including her balcony which is all fake. It is just sad, but it is hard to know what in history is real, based on a story or just a story - so people pay money and get sucked in to see something that was actually built after the book, Romeo and Juliet was first printed.

In other news, all the people who got off the train in Verona we're quiet. Everyone who got on us really loud. This is probably not related in any way to Romeo & Juliet, except there are now a few people who I would be willing to poison.

Step 1 - The Euro. Step 2 - Euronaise?

Italy is truly a mix of cultures and people travelling through the country.

Most every restaurant has their menus in Italian, French, Spanish, German and English. Some have completely separate menus based on your language. Last night I was shocked when the couple next to us were given menus in Russian.

Right now on the train we have a couple from India to our left, Italians behind Dale, Germans behind me and a Frenchman to our right. There is even a lesbian couple from the UK nearby.

I am amazed on how accommodating the staff everywhere has been. The women collecting tickets on the train seems to know enough of every language to get by.

In one restaurant we saw a waiter speak Italian, French and then perfect English to two women travelling from Boston. His English was perfect and if I had heard him on the street, I would have expected he was a tourist from the US.

We have not had one issue communicating anywhere. Now I know that is partly due to the fact that we are in more tourist type areas, but we travelled all over Paris with no issues. Everyone is so kind as we butcher their language and get us what or where we need.

We are so less accommodating in the US. I do not see us willing to print our menus in multiple languages and most of us are annoyed when someone visits our country and does not learn our language. It is a shame, we are not nicer to tourists as a country. We need to realize the world does not revolve around the US.

Maybe part of their ease for other languages comes from the fact that there are so many countries so close together with different languages.

I joked to Dale about the fact that I wonder if one day you see one language in Europe. Most European countries adopted the Euro and have centralized currency. Some thought that was impossible. If you asked anyone from Italy or France 100 years ago if they would give up their currency everyone probably would have laughed, but today is the day of Euro.

So why not one language blending all the languages that are fairly similar like Spanish, French and Italian? Will the day of speaking Euronaise come? I wonder.

The world is becoming smaller and smaller as we see everything on the internet and join together with technology. Even in Venice we saw a gondolier on his cell phone while drifting down one of the canals. It makes you feel sad in a way, but you know the saying - you can't stop progress. I personally do not know if it is progress or just a steady decline, but technology is moving into all the small spaces left in the world.

Top 5 of Venice

I know this is a bit late as we have been in Milan for two days but I did not want to forget to rate Venice's sights.

1. The canals and our gondola ride were my favorite part. The canals and the city itself are so unique and wonderful. Truly the entire city is a sight to see and there are not a lot of museums or churches of interest, but just being in this city beats any museum, church or painting.

2. St. Mark's Square, especially at night as it was so romantic and the battling orchestras very enjoyable.

3. Although not a sight others will get to see, I have to place meeting and dinner with the Spencers in the top. It was such a fun evening.

4. The park we found along the sea whose name we do not know but was where we watched the sun set over St. Mark's Square - a hidden paradise.

5. The shopping and kind wonderful clerks throughout Venice. It is just so enjoyable to go shop to shop in Venice.

I could have stayed in this city forever. It brought me peace and happiness. My favorite stop so far.

Farewell Venice

As planned we stopped at the FedEx office after breakfast where a very helpful woman got three boxes shipped for us back to the US full of our underwear.

Just kidding. We shipped some Venetian masks, a few things we bought for the nieces and nephew plus the shoes I wore for the trip originally (I bought new ones in Paris). We just felt it made sense to lighten the load and this way Dale can't say no when I want to buy stuff in throughout the rest of Italy.

While here we have been searching for new rings. Every year Dale and I buy new rings on our anniversary which is on July 8th. We thought rings from Venice would be a special memory, but have had little luck as most shops carry little selection of men's rings and if they do finding two of the same ring in the sizes we needed was impossible.

However this AM, while waiting for our water taxi to pick us up we had about an hour and decided to wonder to window shop. Of course this is when we find the perfect rings - brushed silver with black onyx. They are wonderful and we bought two bracelets, cuff links and a pendant too. The prices were very reasonable.

Venice was so special for us, it will be a wonderful memory to have rings made in Italy and purchased in Venice.

We are now waiting for our train to leave from Venice. Next stop is Milan, which will be very different from our past three days as Milan is a very large city with over 1 million people.

The train is moving! Time for a little rest.

Busy Morning in Venice

It is 8:30. Dale is already up and in the shower. Next my turn, then a quick breakfast and then off to the FedEx office to ship back some of the goodies we acquired here in Venice rather than carry for the next three cities.

We check out at 11 AM and then have a water taxi scheduled to take us to the train station to catch our train to Milan.

A very busy morning. We may try to FedEx our friend Barb home a man if we see a cute one along the way.

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

This entire city is a museum

As we head to bed on our final night in Venice, I feel slightly sad. This will be a city I hate to say goodbye, but I am sure Milan, Florence and Rome will thrill too.

Today's step count was 23,134 bringing the Venice total to 67,003 or 33.50 miles. Not bad for such a tiny island.

In 8 days of our vacation, we have done 203,103 steps or 101.50 miles. That is a little over 12.50 miles per day, which can be tiring - but with so many sights to see, worth it.

The contrast between Paris and Venice is staggering. One so modern with museums and the other feels like the entire city is a museum.

Maybe that is the best way to explain Venice - the entire city feels like it is a different time. Like you are in your own giant museum.

I will miss it!

Battle of the Bands

Dale and I have wondered back to St. Mark's Square and are sitting, drinking and listening to the battling orchestras.

It is a tradition as each outdoor cafe has an orchestra and each take turns trying to out play the other. It is great fun and huge crowds gather. A sort of original battle of the bands.

The drinks are expensive but it is all part of the experience. Dale even ordered a drink.

A Walk of Surprises

After dinner Dale and I walked along the water by St. Mark's Square, which we had only walked a mile along one previous night.

Tonight we walked even further and hotels along the water eventually gave way to a beautiful park covered in a canopy of trees. It was truly a surprise as you do not see trees on the island of Venice, well except for this section.

The park is cool and comfortable and filled with stone statues peaking from over-grown plants, as if playing their own game of hide and seek.

As we sit a few miles away we can see the sun set over St. Mark's Square. This is truly a postcard view that feels like it was painted just for us. A gift for only us.

The breeze is comfortable and the sights amazing. Soon the rose colored street lights will be coming on.

I could not think of a better way to end our last day here.

Gondola

Our gondola can only be described as glorious, grand and magical.

I know I keep using the word magical but I do not know a word better to describe the feeling Venice brings you.

You feel like you have been transported back in time as you sail the canals and hear your gondolier tell you the stories of the palaces, history of the canals and amusing antidotes about Venice. Our gondolier told stories passed down from his daddy and grand-daddy, both gondoliers. It was nice when he referred to them with such love and humor.

Our ride took us down many of the smaller canals and then into the Grand Canal. It was a glorious ride as the sunset over Venice and will be a memory of a lifetime. I could have sat there for hours more.

I am sad to leave Venice tomorrow as I feel truly happy and comfortable here. The most relaxed and calm I have been in years. It will be hard to say farewell to all this tomorrow.

We have settled in for dinner at the restaurant we celebrated my birthday. We loved the humor of the staff and the food was amazing, so we decided to come here for our final night.

Dale's Inner Italian

Dale's Italian heritage has come to the surface. He has easily adopted the afternoon nap and he will not wake up.

It is time for the gondola and some more gelato.

Siesta

Time for a little afternoon nap back at the hotel.

Shade and Pasta

As expected we once again walked the streets of Venice after breakfast.

Dale and I seem to find more interest in the streets, canals and people of Venice than the churches. You are allowed to walk through most of the churches for about 3 euros, but most look very dark and very warm - so we have opted for shopping and people watching. The important part is we are enjoying ourselves.

We noticed yesterday the Cindy Spencer took a lot of photos of door handles, so now we notice every one. Most are so ornate and decorative. Something that has truly gone unnoticed for us until now.

The heat of the day is upon us so we have found shade and pasta in a cafe for lunch.

A man plays the accordion on the street along side the cafe and there is heavy traffic for Dale to people watch as I blog.

Today is our last day in Venice as we leave tomorrow. We are planning to end our stay with a gondola ride.

Dale has taken off his shirt and is now dancing to the accordion music. It must be heat stroke.

Oh wait, I feel asleep for a moment and must have been dreaming.

Funny Thing

I fell back to sleep trying to will Dale to wake up.

Apparently his will was stronger.

Okay, we are up and off to breakfast.

Wake Up

It is around 8 AM and Dale is still sleeping, which is understandable as we did not get to sleep until 1 AM. However I am not sleeping.

I woke up when I heard the church bells next door at 7 AM.

I cannot get back to sleep and want to go eat breakfast, which is served at the hotel from 8. - 10 AM but want to wait for Dale.

I tried staring at Dale to see if that would magically wake him up, but it did not.

I tried coughing several times, but nothing.

I tried getting out of bed to get a drink of water to see if that would do it, but he didn't even stir.

I tried "accidentally" rolling over and bumping into him. He just grunted, rolled the other way and went back to sleep without ever opening his eyes. He may have never woken up.

I am hungry but I am running out of options here of ways to discretely wake him.

I will go back to staring at him and using pure wishful thinking to wake him. That has worked in the past.

Monday, June 23, 2008

Venice - Easy on the Feet

So far Venice is my favorite stop on our European vacation, but it is only stop two, so that could change. But how can you not love this magical island and want it to be your favorite?

We shopped quite a bit today and bought some gifts for family and friends.

The shopping brought 21,026 more steps or 10.5 miles today. This brings our Venice total to 22 miles. Our vacation total is 90 miles in just 7 days.

Venice has proved a lot more comfortable on our feet, but a lot warmer and sweat everywhere else. That is a bad visual, sorry.

It is now 12:30 am, so we are calling it a night. Our air conditioner is working, so it should be easier sleeping.

Cindy and Kevin

Tonight we had dinner with Cindy and Kevin Spencer who we met in the dining car on the train from Paris to Venice.

We had so much fun together dining on the train we figured it would be fun to meet up in Venice for something other than cold veal with tuna sauce.

We met them at St. Mark's Square while dodging aggressive pigeons and strolled the streets of Venice toward Rialto Bridge so we could dine at one of the outdoor cafes along the Grand Canal.

It was a wonderful evening with the Spencers once again. They are such a warm, genuine and charismatic couple. Hearing their stories of how they met, live their life and work together was very enjoyable. You could truly feel the love they have for each other and how much they enjoy sharing their lives from each story. Three hours quickly flew by.

The food at dinner was not the best, but still very good. Once again the company was the best part of the evening and for Dale and I, Venice will always be a memory of meeting our new friends Cindy and Kevin from Virginia. It is funny how you can travel half way around the world and meet wonderful people from the USA.

After dinner the four of us once again strolled the now much quieter streets of Venice. We took some photos along the way, did a group photo in St. Mark's Square and said good night near their hotel.

For the Spencers it is onto Florence tomorrow. For Dale and I, one more day in Venice.

Our thanks to Cindy and Kevin for sharing their Venice experience with Dale and I and for making ours a little more special.

Leather Shop

After our lunch we found our way back to a leather store Dale saw last night with nice wallets in the window called Kalimala.

It is not far from St. Mark's Square and actually even though there are no street names here we have become very good at navigating through town. One more day and we will be giving directions to tourists.

So it turns out the owner of the shop makes everything by hand and has been there for 12 years. He also runs his own store and makes everything on site.

He is actually world known having been mentioned in Foder's guides for several times for must see shopping in Venice. One woman came in the shop and commented she had been dragging her husband around for hours trying to find this guy's shop.

There is nothing better than the smell of good leather and a good leather shop is heaven. My Mom used to buy Aigne leather handbags so the smell of leather is a nice childhood memory.

Anyhow, the owner was very kind and helpful. We now each have new wallets.

The funny part is the store is now so popular the owner started his own web site - www.kalimala.it.

I love that technology has come to even Venice. He told us even with more sales online, he still selects all his own leather by hand and makes the bags himself.

It was a great experience.

Liver & Onions

In case you are wondering Dale's liver and onions were...

...amazing. Delicious. He even shared a taste. Good choice by Dale.

My spaghetti was good, as expected.

The shade was great too.

We are off to explore some more.

Shade

Venice is very hot and humid today, but even with the heat and crowds I love it.

Dale and I have found some shade at a cafe for a little lunch. Dale is being adventurous and going with the Venetian style liver and onions. I was safe and went for the comfort of spaghetti.

More than food, the shade is most appreciated.

Cold Breakfast

Some good news - around 5 AM the air conditioner starting working. I think it was too hot yesterday and froze up from working too hard all day. Hopefully it keeps working.

This morning we went to the cold breakfast included with the room. We skipped it is our Paris hotel having overslept the first day and then falling in love with the amazing pastries at the local bakery for 2 euros each.

The breakfast here had yogurt, cereal, croissants, ham, cheese, juice and coffee. It was good. But some of the other people were eating like this is there only mean of the day. Maybe it is.

Several nice birthday wishes came in after I went to sleep last night. Thank you all for thinking of me!

Well time to go shower and hit the town.

Sunday, June 22, 2008

Steps Update

Forgot to tell everyone in the last post - on the steps front we did 22,843 steps or 11.5 miles of wondering aimlessly in Venice today, bringing the grand total to 79.5 miles.

Our sneakers should be wore out by the end of this 3-week trek.

The Sauna of Venice

We are in a bit of a sauna. We are on the 5th floor of our hotel and the air conditioning is not working.

Now you are probably thinking big deal, but it is honestly 100 degrees in our room as it was in the mid 90s all day. Worse of all it is extremely muggy since we are on the ocean.

Dale has told the man at the desk twice tonight about it. Both times, the man at the front desk kept telling Dale impossible - air is automatic. He barely speaks English and Dale barely speaks Italian.

Dale finally convinced him to hike up the 5 flights of stairs and you could see his amazement as he walked in our room. If the 5 flights wasn't bad enough for him, the heat in our room did it. He is not a tiny man and is about my size. The sweat was poring off him. He no longer said impossible and you could tell he felt bad for blowing us off earlier.

Unfortunately, our air conditioner is blowing hot air and he is no repair man. The hotel is full, so we are making the best of it. He hopes to get it fixed tomorrow.

We have the window open but due to the buildings being so close there is no breeze. Plus when I first opened the window bats flew off our ledge. So I half expect to wake to a ceiling of bats hanging from our chandelier.

Oh well. What can you do? It is all part of the experience and so hot it is almost comical at this point. Plus on the bright side I will sweat off all the gelato I ate today and be staying in a bat cave.

'night!

Birthday Thanks

My birthday is coming to a close in Venice.

I wanted to thank everyone who emailed, texted, tweeted and wrote on my Facebook wall to wish me a happy birthday.

It is wonderful to have such a wonderful group of family and friends in my life. I am truly blessed. Thank you all!

Magical City

Venice can only be described as magical. It is truly one of the most unique and beautiful places on Earth. It cannot be compared and words can barely do it justice.

I now understand why Dale wanted for me to be in Venice for my birthday. This entire city is truly a gift. Every turn brings something new, yet comfortable. The city is true romance and love. I am overwhelmed by the beauty that surrounds me.

It is now 11 PM. We have been walking the city as the stars cover the skies above. The city is less crowded at night but it still has a beautiful rhythm to it. We have found a bench to sit and just take it all in.

We hear the soothing sounds of the boats on the Grand Canal in front of us.

We see lovers holding hands as they stroll with no plan except to be together.

We hear the click of women's heels on the stone roads.

The salt air is warm and feels kind as it gently presses our faces.

We hear laughter and love all around us.

The waves press against the shore, but are not crashing. They are gentle and almost graceful as if they respect the city.

The street lights create a warm glow around us.

I have fallen in love with this city. It will forever be a place I cherish. A place Dale has given me.

Birthday Dinner

At a Venice restaurant.

People stroll by.

Humid.

The sounds of violins in the distance.

Sitting with the man I love and share my life.

Amazing birthday.

I ordered the seabass.

Dale ordered the sirloin.

They are near water so fish makes sense. I saw no cows today.

Gelato

We walked through Venice for almost four hours today already.

It was an amazing mix of sights, canals, boats, gelato, shopping and more gelato.

Yes, we could not resist the gelato and stopped once when we arrived and again after lunch. If it helps we did a single scoop each time. I see a lot of gelato in my immediate future.

The hotel is down a small road, more like an alley near the Rialto Bridge, but inside the rooms are wonderful.

We bought a few prints and two masks, which are famous from Venice and found a great place for lunch along the Grand Canal.

We both had spaghetti for lunch. Mine with clam sauce and Dale with tomato. I love clams, so being on the ocean will prove heavenly for me.

The perfect gift

Venice is amazing. It feels like you can wonder the streets for days and never cross the same place twice.

There are 3,000 streets and most do not have signs to identify them. It seems like the city was built in order for you to get lost and forget your worries. I plan to do just that.

It is noon here now. Church bells fill the air. Many stores have closed for a mid-afternoon break. The once crowded, noisy streets are quiet.

We find some shade on some church steps and take a break.

I feel so relaxed here. No agenda. No place to see. Just peace. A perfect birthday gift. Thank you Dale.

No Murders Last Night

It is now a little past 8 AM and are about an hour outside Venice.

Sleeping was fine on the train last night. It was a little warm and I woke up every hour but not bad at all. I never sleep well when in new surroundings.

The bunk beds have been converted back to seats.

Breakfast has been served - croissants, juice and coffee. Dale drank my coffee and seemed to enjoy it. We supplemented our breakfast with bananas, Orangina and a baguette we brought from Paris.

Also, there were no murders on the train last night. I am a huge fan of Murder on the Orient Express and throughout the night I hoped to have a knock at the door and asked to help solve the crime before our next stop. However the request never came as I expect everyone is still alive today. I had planned to expose the conductor as the murderer, with the candle stick in the dining car. Now wouldn't a fake Clue-like murder mystery been a fun birthday gift? Ah, to dream.

Still being on a sleeper train from Paris to Venice is an amazing birthday gift in itself.

To Me

Here is to me turning 36.

Saturday, June 21, 2008

Veal in Tuna Sauce

The dinner car was very interesting - great company and okay food.

We were seated with a couple named Cindy and Kevin from Virginia celebrating their 25 year wedding anniversary in Europe. It was great since they were fun, great conversationalists and spoke English.

Dinner was a blast as we joked and told stories for hours. They are illusionists who travel the world performing. Check out their site www.spencersmagic.com.

The food however went from good to scary back to good. We had pasta -good, potatoes - good, veal in tuna sauce - scary and pound cake - good. The veal was not great especially with liquid tuna fish on it, but I ate most of it in order to say I tried it, as did Kevin. Cindy and Dale were not as brave.

It was fun and veal with tuna sauce with illusionists will forever be a story.

I am now officially 36!

The French Countryside Exposed

In case you are curious what the french countryside looks like...it looks a lot like upstate New York where I grew up.

Drive route 9 from Albany to Plattsburgh and it is just like you in the french countryside (and NY has a better exchange rate).

You see large farms, trees, quaint houses and more trees. It is quite lovely and beautiful. The sun is just starting to set, but it will probably stay light to around 11 PM as it is the longest day of the year today. The late sunsets and twilight made Paris quite enjoyable too.

My Birthday Between Italy & France

We are on the train going through the French countryside headed for Italy.

It is 8:30 here and our reservation in the dining car is at 9:45 PM. We have ham sandwiches (jambon baguettes) in our bags but opted for the dining car for the experience. How often nowadays do you get to dine on a train? It sounds all fancy to me; when I say that Dale just laughs.

Our sleeper car is nice. Three seats that convert to bunk beds. Bunk beds - just like camp. I never went to camp, so I just have to assume it is like that. I'm not bitter. I didn't want to go to camp anyhow. Really. I did like the movie Meatballs and expect camp to be a lot like that...practical jokes and sex. Maybe the train will be similar, but I doubt it.

Loved Paris, but looking forward to Venice too.

It is funny. When we arrived in Paris everything felt so large. The streets felt winding. The signs confusing. Things were exciting, but a little intimidating. I thought we would be lost for days. But there we were on day 5, jumping subway to subway, knowing every subway station near our hotel without a map, taking back streets we knew as shortcuts, unafraid to walk into any cafe and helping other travelers learn their way. It is amazing how fast you can learn Paris and feel comfortable. It truly is an easy and kind city. So warm and accepting.

I recommend it to everyone.

I assume we will feel intimidated for a day or two in Venice also, but I expect us to be running our own gondola tours within a few days. :)

Well tomorrow we will be in Venice and it will be my birthday. I will turn 36 somewhere between France and Italy. Can you imagine a better birthday gift?

I will let you know how dinner goes.

Top 5 of Paris

There was nothing we regret visiting in Paris or did not like. Everything was wonderful but here is the best of the best.

1. Musee d' Orsay - we loved, loved, loved this museum not only for the art inside but also the amazing architecture of this former railroad station.

2. The Palace of Versailles - a palace in every way. It is grand, beautiful and lavish. The gardens are truly the best part and can only be defined as amazing.

3. Rodin Museum - seeing his sculptures throughout the rose gardens were incredible. The art was amazing and you were able to examine every piece up close.

4. Eiffel Tower - The symbol of Paris. Everything about it was great -from the walk up to just sitting in the park across the street watching it light up.

5. Pere-Lechaise Cemetery - a beautiful sense of history and a wonderful way to spend an afternoon.

An honorable mention to the Louvre. It was crowded and far too much for any man to see, but how can you not appreciate and love seeing the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo.

68 Miles of Paris

We are at the Bercy Train station in Paris waiting on our train to Venice, which is an overnight sleeper.

We picked up our bags from our hotel and rather than take a cab to the station, we took the subway. The driving here is horrible and we have gotten so used to subway, we figured it was easier. It was no problem, just one train to a second train and here we are.

Today is the first day of summer and Paris celebrates with a city wide music festival. Every neighborhood has it's own music and bands. They say it is quite a celebration with music filling the entire city late into the night. The downside is the fact that Paris is mobbed today, so it may be a good time to be leaving as the subways were packed this afternoon.

The visit to Paris was wonderful and it truly was the trip of a lifetime. I am so thankful to Dale for the trip and for being such a glorious companion.

Today we did 21,180 steps taking our total to 136,100 or 68 miles. Not too bad for 5 days of Paris.

Pere-Lachaise Cemetery

After lunch we spent several hours roaming the massive cemetery.

It was peaceful and beautiful. The cobble stone roads and pathways are covered in a canopy of large trees. It is full of large mausoleums and family plots from the 1800s and beyond.

We saw the graves of Jim Morrison, many french entertainers and political figures.

The cemetery feels endless and is well worth the trip. You feel a sense of history at every turn.

The cemetery trees seem to be home to many crows, which felt fitting somehow for a cemetery.

A wonderful recommendation from our friend Robin and a great way to end our trip in Paris.

Lunchtime

We are over by the cemetery and decided to stop for lunch before exploring.

We are in a very non-touristy area, so the cafe only speaks french. We did great ordering (at least I think so).

It is a beautiful day to sit outside.

I have gotten my french phrases down fairly well that I will still be using them it Venice tomorrow unfortunately.

Last Day in Paris

Our whites never looked whiter. Our brights never looked brighter. Laundry is done.

The laundromat driers are kick ass and although the washer takes 32 minutes the driers dry everything in 10 minutes and for only 1 euro.

While waiting for our laundry we got in 5,000 steps walking around town. It is getting busy as the bakery, butcher and cheese shops are full with Saturday morning shoppers. The good seats at the cafes by the street are already starting to fill up.

We are now off to the hotel to pack, check out and then are off to visit the cemetery that among other things is the resting place of Jim Morrison.

Spin Baby Spin

Waiting for clothes to wash is tres boring. It is like watching paint dry.

I asked Dale to climb in the dryer so I could take his picture and he said no.

5 minutes until washing is done and we start drying.

Everyone who comes into the laundromat is so friendly and says bonjour. It is nice.

Laundry Time

This morning we are at the local laundromat washing our clothes we wore this week.

There are two nearby that we found in our travels, so he we sit eating pastries watching our clothes dry.

It is 3.70 euros to wash. Not sure yet how much to dry. But it is worth it as we are traveling with only one bag each. We have enough clothes for 5 days and on 6th we do laundry.

It is just one more way to experience the local culture.

Thankfully we found the laundromats as otherwise Dale may have me down by the river banging our clothes against a rock so I could experience the culture of the past.

Friday, June 20, 2008

Wizard of Oz

There is a band playing at a club a few blocks from our hotel.

We are sitting in our room with the balcony open.

You can hear the band but not the singer from here. The sound and echo from them playing creates a sound identical to the guards in the Wizard of Oz when they are chasing Dorothy and crew right before Dorothy throws water on the Witch.

You know - OEOOO OEOOO OEOOO.

Okay, not sure if anyone will understand that.

Loud and busy out tonight. City is a buzz on a Friday night.

Good Travel Karma

We are headed back to the hotel. After a stop for ice cream at the Eiffel Tower we walked southeast for a few hours and then headed back up toward the river to Musee d'Orsay to catch the train. It is wonderful to just walk, explore and encounter Paris as it falls at your feet.

At the station we encountered an Asian mother and daughter unable to speak English (or French), but we were able to determine they needed coins for the subway. All they had were bills and the automated machines only take coins.

We gave them the 3 euros in coins and she tried to give us a 10 euro bill for it, but we refused. You could tell she felt embarrassed to take the money, but Dale and I were glad we could help. We had been in the same situation and luckily found a store to buy candy so the change in coins. Even tonight we stopped at a grocery store while walking to buy bananas for a snack so we were sure to have enough money in coins. That was why we had over 6 euros in coins and could help.

Us travelers need to stick together and it is good karma, as everyone we have encountered in Paris has been so helpful to us. They are so kind and accepting when you struggle with their language.

So for steps today, it was our lightest day as we spent a good portion of it on the train to Versailles and hours floating along the Sienne River. We only did 18,301 steps taking our total to 114,300, which is a grand total of 57.15 miles. The funny part was today was our shortest day for walking, but the one that bothered Dale the most.

Tomorrow is our last day in Paris. We leave at 7 PM on a sleeper car for Italy, so stay tuned for my Paris top 5 favorites. We visit a famous cemetery tomorrow, so I do not want to announce anything yet in case that breaks the top of the list.

Social graces and dignity

Things I love about Paris that America should follow.

Now I love America. However I feel we have become too casual as a society and forgot our social graces. Paris has reminded me of that.

No young guys with pants 5 sizes too big hanging down past their asses. Here teenage men dress too look good, not pseudo hip hop.

No loud music blasting out of car windows. I guess this is just an American trend. Maybe with such high gas prices teens cannot afford to drive.

Men shaking hands instead of hitting fists. I hate that and now Howie Mandel has taught middle America it is cool. Here men shake hands to greet and say goodbye. Even to co-workers when they arrive at work.

A focus on history, the arts and theater. It surrounds you in your every step.

Holding doors for people and saying thank you. It is constant here.

Business suits. It has been replaced with business casual in the US but here it is still the norm.

We need a return of respecting our fellow man and ourselves. Paris seems more dignified. Maybe it is because we are just visiting.

Love on the Seinne

As you float along the Seinne River you see couples in love all along the shore.

On the bridges.

On the steps.

Sitting together.

Holding hands.

Embracing.

Kissing.

Some doing a little more than kissing.

You know they are dating because you can see the romance. The passion.

The married couples of Paris are probably at home watching TV or at separate cafes with friends.

Dale used to take me to a lake he liked. Hold my hand. Embrace. Kiss. That was when he was courting me. Trying to win my heart, which he did fairly early.

Now if he took me to the lake, I would assume it was to drown me and dispose of my body.

Just kidding. Dale is as loving as day one. How else would you explain this trip.

Back to the BatoBus

Got off the train at the Eiffel Tower and then jumped onto the BatoBus for a nice boat ride along the Seine River.

We plan to take it all the way around - a full trip up and down the river.

We are sitting on the ground on the back desk. It is cooler out here and I think will be good for photos.

All aboard!

We plan to get back off at the Eiffel Tower and if Dale is good the whole trip there may be an ice cream in his future. If!

Americans in Paris

Back on the train heading to Paris.

The train is pretty full.

It is warm and sunny now.

I watch other Americans.

They seem load.

Annoying.

Complaining about food and prices.

Annoyed by the maps.

Annoyed by everything.

Why come to another country if you do not want to try new things?

Do Dale and I seem like this to the French?

I hope not.

Le Pizza

We had pizza for lunch. I have to say that the French make some of the best pizza around and I have grown fond of the fried egg on the pizza.

I wonder if Italy will have good french food?

Versailles Gardens Are Magnificent

Versailles is amazing. Very grand and regal. Better than the inside of the Palace are the gardens on the outside which go on for days. You could spend a lifetime just wondering the gardens and fountains. They are incredible and you feel so small against such large gardens. The royalty knew how to make the own urban nature landscape.

We have stopped for a little lunch at a cafe in the gardens near the canal. It is very quaint hidden in a lush greenery.

It is still overcast today but warm, actually a little muggy.

Coolness

We are headed on the RER train to Versailles. It is about 20 miles West of Paris.

The station window was closed so we had to use the automated kiosk which was very confusing as Versailles was under "other options.". We finally had to ask for help. But we did help another family find the Metro so I guess it is a karma balance.

There is a man playing the accordion on the train. We have seen that several times on the metro too. Why didn't the accordion become popular in the US? This guy plays very fast tunes, so it is enjoyable except for the money begging part. Did Weird Al help the coolness of the accordion in the US or hurt it? Is or was Weird Al cool? Did only I think he was?

We have officially left Paris. Everything is so much more modern. The buildings are all newer. I guess not everything can be like Paris. I guess the suburbs are the suburbs everywhere. Convenience at the sake of coolness.

I got to use coolness a lot in this posting. I think everyone reading this should use coolness in conversation today. Let's get that word out there in the mainstream.

A view to Paris

Sitting up on our balcony and watching people walk but is truly relaxing to me. I could do this the rest of my life.

A woman walks by adjusting the scarf wrapped to her neck. You can see the baguette sticking out of her bag.

A man in his suit shuffles off to work with newspaper in hand.

Two children full of energy run ahead of their Mother and I assume from her tone are scolded.

The motorcycles zip by.

A taxi has stopped to pick up people. The woman in the car behind yells and beeps as he is blocking the road.

These things always seemed like stereotypes to me, but they are not. They are Paris and its' people.

Very Paris To Me

The building next to our hotel is being renovated. The noise is minimal and they start so late in the AM anyhow.

However today we woke to the sound of one of the construction workers singing. It was like he was serenading the entire city. He has a great voice.

It was very Paris to me.

Thursday, June 19, 2008

48 Miles of Paris

Day three is winding to a close here as it is 11:30 PM.

We just got back to the hotel again having strolled the neighborhood cafes for a place for dessert.

Nothing met our fancy so we finally came upon a grocery store and decided to buy some water for tomorrow, Orangina for the morning and some ice cream for a treat. We found ice cream Dixie cups that came with their own spoon. It was fun to walk around a French market and see their food options. It is also interesting that their cashiers all sit, while ours stand. Why can't our cashiers sit too?

We headed back to the hotel, ate our ice cream and got our stuff ready for tomorrow. I think we are headed to the Palace at Versailles, which Dale's niece, Sally recommended from her trips here.

Also my thanks to people like Robin, Nicole, Toby and AnJanette who lended us guide books. They are great. Thanks to those of you who emailed and commented on my blog with suggestions too. All great advice so far.

Today we walked a lot again and our step count for those of you wondering was 34,909. It takes us to a grand total of 95,999 or 1 step shy of 48 miles. That is fairly amazing, if you ask my feet.

Big thanks to Sally, Nell, Dave, Sara, John, Kath and the Red Head for all the comments and validation on steps per mile. It is like you are here with us.

Dave's question about photos. Sorry. I did not bring my laptop, so all photos will be shared on the blog and Flickr post vacation, so in July. So for now it is just my ramblings.

Until tomorrow.

Dale is trying to kill me!

It is official. Dale is trying to kill me. If you never see me again, please contact the authorities.

With my feet aching, did we head to the hotel for a break? No! Instead Dale dragged me to the highest point in Paris besides the Eiffel Tower to visit the Church called Sacre Coeur.

The Church sits on the highest hill in Paris and overlooks all the roof tops. The views are stunning. However it is quite the hike straight up and after a day of walking I was convinced Dale was trying to kill me.

Oddly enough on the way down we saw a woman being carried out on as stretcher, so obviously her husband and Dale have the same idea, but I survived! So did she. Looks like she needed oxygen more than anything.

We are now sitting in our hotel, Dale is napping (or trying) and I am trying to convince him to go to a cafe with me. We will see if he gives in.

Subways and Shoes

Dale and I walked to the subway station to the furthest East in Paris. It is always great to see the less mainstream Paris.

We saw the huge amount of traffic on the major roadway leaving Paris. We also saw a lot of soccer fields and teams playing and practicing.

It is 8 PM and everyone is heading home or to the cafe.

We are on the subway heading back to our neck of the woods and our hotel for a pit stop. Not sure if we will head back out tonight or not.

My feet are aching so I bought some new shoes at Adidas. I am hoping that will help. The shoes I bought for the trip were my actual shoe size and killing me. I usually wear all my shoes two sizes bigger, so I went back to that and got new running shoes in s size 12 or what I call sneakers and Dale calls tennies. We will see if it helps.

Why bigger shoes than my feet? Well I hate tight shoes. I would wear sandals year round if I could. And you know what they say about big shoes, right? Well the bigger size helps with that myth. ;)

The subway is packed. It is warm and humid from the rain. I can barely see Dale through all the people. I can see him now. He just winked at me.

Our stop is next.

People watching

It' almost 7 PM here. Dale and I found a nice bench to sit and people watch, which is quite enjoyable in Paris.

There are such a mix of people. It is a wonderful mix of cultures, races and histories...all walking by in harmony.

We had dinner at a nice Italian restaurant where we shared a caesar salad and pizza. The food was incredible and included a fried egg in the center of the pizza. It was delicious, as was the Fanta to drink.

We are off to explore the streets some more.

Rain and Rodin

I forgot to tell everyone that a bird popped on my shoulder while we were climbing the Eiffel Tower on Tuesday.

They say it is good luck, but it is pretty gross. Thankfully I planned and brought handi wipes for such an occasion, so it was easy clean up.

Now we are sitting in the gardens at the Rodin Museum across from the Thinker sculpture and every time I hear a bird, I look around for poop on my shoulder. Yes I am paranoid.

The rain is falling lightly so Dale and I see huddled under the umbrella Dale said not to bring since it never rains in Europe in June. Well here we sit in Paris in the rain in June.

I feel like someone should give Rodin's Thinker an umbrella too. He seems to be pondering when will it stop raining and when do I get pants.